Leaks & Service Repairs

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Reroof Estimates & Inspections

757-399-3066 ext 1 (Reroof Estimates & Inspections)

Category: Residential Roofing

Is Your Roof’s Drainage System Ready for Storm Season?

Between the humidity, the nor’easters, tropical storms and the occasional full-blown hurricane, Hampton Roads knows rain and knows that it’s not to be dealt with lightly.

A well-designed drainage system is one of the most important (and often the most overlooked) investments you can make in your home. When water has nowhere to go, it finds its way into your home’s fascia, down your siding, and finally – into your foundation. But proper drainage isn’t just about gutters. There are many components that work together to keep water moving away from your home. Here’s a breakdown of what your roof drainage system should consider and why.

Drainage: The Unsung Hero

Your roofing materials get a lot of attention: shingles, flashing, underlayment.  But even the highest end roofing materials aren’t worth much if water can’t exit the system efficiently. Poor drainage leads to pooling water, which accelerates shingle deterioration, promotes mold and mildew growth, and puts unnecessary weight and stress on your roof structure. In our coastal climate, where heavy rain events can dump several inches in a matter of hours, a drainage system that can’t keep up is a liability.

The good news is that a properly sized and maintained drainage system is built to handle these types of rain events with ease. The key being “properly sized.” Not every drainage setup is created equal, and the details such as gutter capacity, downspout placement, and guard selection make a significant difference in how well your system performs over time.

Gutters: Capacity Is Everything

Gutters are your roof’s first line of defense against water damage. Their job is to collect runoff from the entire roof surface and channel it safely away from your home’s foundation. Standard residential gutters come in 5-inch and 6-inch widths, with the larger size handling significantly more volume (an especially important consideration for homes with steep pitches or large surface area). In a region where storm intensity can be unpredictable, upsizing your gutters is a decision most homeowners don’t regret.

Equally important is how the gutters are pitched. A properly installed gutter isn’t perfectly level, it’s angled slightly toward the downspout so water flows rather than sits. Standing water in a gutter is a breeding ground for mosquitoes and can lead to rust and rot. Your gutters may look fine from the ground while actually holding water if the pitch has shifted over time due to fastener failure or foundation movement.

One option that addresses many of the issues we experience in the Tidewater region is the Rapid Rain Gutter System™ which was specially designed for high capacity without the visual trade off. The Rapid Rain looks like a standard 5-inch gutter from the curb, but it’s engineered with a larger-than-standard gutter bottom and downspout to perform like a 6-inch system. It’s also constructed from 18.5% heavier metal than standard gutters and mounted with heavy-duty hangers to hold up through years of coastal weather. This is a great option for homeowners who want upgraded drainage performance without the visual bulk of an oversized gutter.

Downspouts: Placement and Number Matter

Downspouts are where drainage systems most commonly fall short. Many homes, especially older builds, were fitted with the minimum number of downspouts, and that minimum may no longer be adequate as the home has settled, trees have grown, or weather patterns have intensified. The general guideline is one downspout for every 30 to 40 linear feet of gutter, but this should be adjusted based on your roof’s size and slope.

Placement is just as important. Downspouts should be positioned at the low points of each gutter run, typically at corners and ideally away from doorways, HVAC units, and areas where pooling near the foundation could become a problem. Extensions at the base of each downspout help direct water at least four to six feet away from the house, reducing the risk of foundation dampness and erosion. If your yard slopes back toward the house, underground extensions or French drains may be worth considering.

Leaf Guards: Worth the Investment?

Leaf guards (also called gutter guards or gutter covers) are designed to keep debris out of your gutters while allowing water to flow through. For homes surrounded by the tall pines, oaks, hickory trees and gumball trees that are so common in Hampton Roads landscaping, they can dramatically reduce how often gutters need to be manually cleaned. However, no gutter guard is completely maintenance-free, and homeowners should install them with realistic expectations.

Upsides:

  • Significantly reduces debris buildup and the need for frequent cleaning
  • Reduces the risk of clogs that lead to overflow and water damage
  • Helps prevent pests and mosquitoes from nesting in standing water
  • Some styles can extend the life of the gutter by reducing moisture contact

Considerations:

  • Fine debris like pine needles and seed pods can still work their way through certain guard designs
  • In heavy rain, water can sometimes overshoot a covered gutter entirely
  • Guards still require periodic inspection and occasional cleaning
  • Installation quality matters – poorly fitted guards can create more problems than they solve

Guard quality varies widely, and micro-mesh styles tend to outperform basic screens or foam inserts in heavily wooded areas. If you’re going with the Rapid Rain Gutter System™, it can be fitted with Andrews Roofing’s patented MicroGuard Leaf Protection, which has over 48 perforations per square inch making it fine enough to block even small debris like pine needles. For other gutter systems, the important thing is just to be sure whatever guard you select is compatible with your gutter profile and installed with care by a professional.

Rain Diverters: A Targeted Tool, Not a Replacement

Rain diverters are metal strips installed on the roof surface to redirect water away from specific problem areas such as doorways, porches, or valleys that tend to funnel runoff water all in one area, creating heavy water streams. They can be a practical and relatively low-cost solution in the right situation. For example, if you have a doorway that has a constant waterfall effect every time it rains, that’s a good place for a diverter.

However, diverters come with their own set of trade-offs. Because they interrupt the natural flow of water across the roof, they can create pockets where debris accumulates. Leaves, twigs, and granules from aging shingles tend to collect along the edge of a diverter, which can eventually trap moisture against the roof surface. If diverters aren’t inspected and cleared regularly, they can contribute to premature shingle wear and even leaks.

So, while rain diverters can solve some problems, they should only be used as a supplement to a larger drainage solution. Use them where they make sense, but don’t rely on them as your primary drainage solution.

Maintenance: Don’t Underestimate This!

Even the best-designed drainage system will fail if not regularly maintained. In Hampton Roads, where tree coverage is dense and storm season runs from spring through late fall, most homes benefit from gutter cleaning at least twice a year. We recommend once in late spring after pollen and seed pods have fallen, and once in late fall after the leaves are down. Doing this before winter weather kicks in can help avoid ice dams and slow leaks that don’t make themselves known until exponential damage has been done.

When cleaning gutters, it’s also a good time to inspect for signs of wear: rust spots, separated seams, loose or bent hangers, and downspouts that have pulled away from the fascia. Check that all downspout extensions are intact and properly directing water away from the foundation. After major storms, a quick visual check is always worth the few minutes it takes. A clog that forms after a heavy rain event can cause overflow damage in the very next storm if it goes unaddressed.

The Right System for Your Home

Roof drainage isn’t one-size-fits-all. The right setup depends on your home’s size and roof pitch, the tree coverage on your property, your yard’s grading, and how much maintenance you’re realistically going to do. A home tucked into a wooded lot in Chesapeake has different needs than a townhouse in a newer Virginia Beach development near the beach.

If you’re not sure whether your current drainage system is up to the task of this year’s hurricane season, Andrews Roofing can take a look. We’ll assess your gutter sizing, downspout placement, and overall drainage strategy and let you know if there are any vulnerabilities worth addressing before the next big storm rolls through. A small investment in drainage today can prevent a much larger repair bill down the road. Contact us today for an evaluation.

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Protecting Your Roof While Power Washing

This is the time of year that many Hampton Roads homeowners get outside and start tidying up their yard and home’s exterior as outdoor living season takes off.

For some, this includes power washing off mold, mildew and other dirt that has accumulated on vinyl siding, wood fascia, gutters and even brick. While this is a good task to stay on top of to keep your house looking good and to protect your home’s building materials from decay, there are also risks, especially the higher up you go.

It’s tempting to take the power washing all the way to the top – especially when you see algae and mold buildup on your roof. If it works on the siding and driveway, why not the roof, right? But the damage you can cause to yourself and your home with this well-intentioned chore could be disastrous.

What Happens When You Power Wash Shingles

It’s never a good idea to power wash your roof. First and foremost, it’s incredibly dangerous to you. Walking on a slick, steep slope roof with a powerful tool in hand is a recipe for injury. But it’s also likely to do more harm than good to your roof as well. Here’s how:

  • Granule loss: the protective granules embedded in asphalt shingles are what shield them from UV rays and weather. The high pressure of the pressure washer strips them away, which can make them age faster.
  • Shingle breakage and cracking: older or already-weathered shingles are brittle; the added pressure can crack, split, or blow them away entirely.
  • Voided manufacturer warranty: many shingle manufacturers explicitly exclude damage from pressure washing, so don’t take any chances of losing a valuable warranty.
  • Water penetration to roof decking: a power washer has the ability to raise shingles up when the spray is pointed at the right angle. When that happens, water can penetrate to the underlayment and even to the roof decking, leading to rot, mold and eventually structural damage.

Power Washing Fascia, Gutters and Soffits

It’s also tempting to power wash the fascia, gutters and soffit on the outside of your house, as they can tend to get mildewed, especially in highly shaded areas or on the north side of your home. There are some ways to do this safely but keep these points in mind.

  • Upward spray under shingles: angling the wand upward forces water past the shingle’s overlap. As mentioned above, this can penetrate to the roof deck, causing much bigger and long-term damage.
  • Shingle lifting and loosening: the force can break the seal strip between shingles, leaving them vulnerable to strong wind lift afterward.
  • Gutter loosening: the force of a power washer may loosen or even detach gutters from the fascia or your home, or downspouts from their connection points. When gutters are not in place, they don’t move water away from your home correctly, which can lead to water damage along your foundation.
  • Soffit penetration: water driven into soffits can reach attic insulation, causing moisture buildup and mold growth inside the home.

What Should You Do Instead?

You want your home to look beautiful and protect it from long-term staining and damage, but there are right ways and wrong ways to do that. Here are a few ideas that are safer but still effective.

  • Soft washing: consider a low-pressure application of a biocide or cleaning solution designed specifically for roofs. These often attach to regular water hoses and can kill algae and mildew without physical force.
  • Professional gutter cleaning: Hire a local professional to manually clean your gutters with professional tools and leave the ladder climbing to them.
  • Annual professional roof inspection: catch buildup and early damage before it becomes a bigger problem. Call your local roofing professional if you have any concerns about roof aging, damage or maintenance. They will know what to look for and also how to identify and deal with it safely.
  • Algae-resistant shingles: there are some roofing materials now that have built-in algae resistance. Talk to your roofing contractor about these options if you’re considering a roof replacement. This is a particularly good choice for homeowners in the Hampton Roads region, which sees wet, humid weather year-round.

Take the Pressure Off Yourself

Your roof is your home’s first line of defense against the elements. Don’t let a DIY weekend compromise it, costing you money or even your safety. At Andrews Roofing we know all the telltale signs of roof damage – whether it was caused by you, the weather, age or previous owners. Contact us today if you have any concerns about your roof’s condition; we’d be happy to help point you in the right direction, while taking the pressure off you.

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The Role of Proper Ventilation for Roof Health and Energy Efficiency

When Southeast Virginia summers hit, your roof starts working overtime. But if it’s not breathing right, you could be facing major issues.

Hampton Roads homeowners know summer doesn’t ease in gently. By late May (or even April!), temperatures are climbing into the 90s, humidity is thick, and on a clear, sunny day, your attic temperature can soar past 150°F. Most people only think about their roof when something goes wrong that’s immediately visible – a missing shingle after a storm or stain on the ceiling after a heavy rain, but one of the most damaging things that can happen to a roof in this region is largely invisible until it’s too late: poor ventilation.

Proper roof ventilation isn’t a luxury or an up sell – it’s a foundational part of a healthy roofing system. When ventilation fails, the rest of your home’s structure will feel it, as will your energy bills. Here’s what Southeast Virginia homeowners need to know heading into another hot, humid summer season.

How Proper Roof Ventilation Works

A properly ventilated roof system is simple in principle: fresh air enters through intake vents (typically at the soffits) and hot, moist air exits through exhaust vents (at or near the ridge). This continuous airflow keeps your attic from becoming a heat and moisture trap.

Without adequate ventilation, two major issues will arise:

  • Extreme heat builds up in the attic space during the day, radiating downward into living areas and stressing roofing materials from below.
  • Moisture will occur from condensation, when the warm, humid air from outside meets cooler surfaces inside and is trapped.

Condensation: The Silent Destroyer

In the Tidewater region, condensation is a serious concern. Our region’s climate means we deal with heat and humidity in the summer months and temperature swings in the fall and spring, both of which create prime conditions for moisture to accumulate in an attic.

When warm, humid air gets trapped in a poorly ventilated attic, it condenses on the cooler surfaces of your roof’s structural components, from there the damage can compound quickly.

Your roof decking (typically the sheets of plywood you can see from inside your attic) will be the first material to be affected. Over time, moisture exposure will cause the wood to swell, warp, and eventually rot. Once this happens, it can no longer hold fasteners properly, meaning your shingles aren’t as secure as they should be.

From there, moisture can work its way into the rafters, which bear the weight of your whole roof. As you can imagine, wood rot in rafters is serious and in advanced cases, it leads to a sagging roofline and significant structural repairs.

Finally, your insulation will incur damage. Wet insulation loses its ability to resist heat transfer, packs down and clumps, and becomes a breeding ground for mold. Once it’s moisture-damaged, it typically has to be replaced entirely. And mold itself isn’t just a structural problem; it’s a health concern that requires expensive remediation. The good news is that all of this is preventable with proper ventilation.

The Cost of a Poorly Ventilated Attic

We’ve all been hearing about the rise in energy bills, but there’s one reason for this that may not be top of mind: roofing ventilation.

When your attic reaches 140–160°F on a hot afternoon, which it easily can without proper airflow, that heat radiates directly through your ceiling into your living space. Your air conditioning system then has to work significantly harder to maintain a comfortable temperature. It cycles more frequently, runs longer, and wears out faster.

A properly ventilated attic stays dramatically cooler. Adequate attic ventilation can reduce attic temperatures by 40°F or more on peak summer days. That’s a huge reduction in the work your HVAC system is doing, as well as your monthly bill.

Ventilation is Just One Part of the Puzzle

Ventilation is just one part of a healthy roof system. Shingles, underlayment, decking, insulation, and ventilation – every layer depends on the others to perform as designed. Shingles can be in perfect shape while the decking beneath them quietly rots from trapped moisture. Insulation loses its effectiveness the moment it gets wet. A well-designed ventilation system is what keeps everything else working.

That’s why when we evaluate a roof, we look at the complete picture, not just the outermost layer. A comprehensive inspection includes checking soffit vents for blockages, evaluating ridge vent access, and looking for signs of moisture damage in the decking and framing.

Signs Your Roof May Have a Ventilation Problem

If you’re not sure whether your roof has ventilation issues, here are some warning signs to watch for as we head into the hot months:

  • Your upstairs rooms are noticeably hotter than the rest of the house, even with the AC running
  • Your energy bills spike sharply in summer months
  • You notice a musty smell in your attic or upper floor
  • There are visible staining or dark spots on attic sheathing
  • Your roof shows premature aging such as curling, cupping, or granule loss on shingles that aren’t that old
  • Ice dams formed along your eaves last winter (a telltale sign of uneven attic temperatures caused by poor ventilation)

Don’t Wait Until Summer to Find Out

The best time to address ventilation issues is before the heat arrives. By the time your attic is baking in July and your energy bills are quite literally through the roof, the damage may already have started.

Andrews Roofing serves homeowners across Hampton Roads – from Virginia Beach and Chesapeake to Suffolk, Portsmouth, Norfolk and the surrounding communities. We understand the specific demands our climate places on roofing systems, and we know that a truly healthy roof is one that’s been built and maintained as a complete system.

If it’s been a while since your roof has had a thorough inspection or if you’ve noticed any of the warning signs above, contact us today. We’ll evaluate your roof from shingles to soffit vents and give you a clear, honest picture of where you stand and what will continue to keep your home healthy heading into summer.

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Designing a Better Deck with Walkable Roofing Pavers

If you have an elevated deck or raised patio, you probably already understand and appreciate the value of an outdoor living space in the Hampton Roads region with our year-round mild weather.

Whether you invested in the deck yourself, or it came with your property when you purchased it, you also probably understand and appreciate how much maintenance and upkeep these decks require. You may be seeing boards that have warped, splintered, or gone gray; a surface that needs sanding and resealing every couple of years; or just an overall look that feels dated and tired. And if you are, you’re probably starting to weigh your options for repairs or replacements.

The obvious choices are what most people gravitate toward: replace the wood with composite decking, re-board the whole thing, do extensive sanding and resealing or put down concrete pavers and call it done. All of those are reasonable paths, but there is another path that you may not have considered that is a great option for elevated decks and raised patios in particular: walkable rubber composite roofing pavers.

These are the same materials used to create rooftop terraces and walkable flat roof surfaces, but it turns out that everything that makes them excellent for a rooftop makes them excellent for a deck, too.

The Usual Suspects

Wood decking is a popular choice because of cost as well as the warmth and aesthetics it brings to a space, but it requires a real maintenance commitment, especially in a coastal environment like Hampton Roads. The humidity, the salt air, the wet, rainy springs and blazing summers can take a toll. Wood warps, splits, splinters, fades, and eventually rots if it isn’t kept up. Pressure washing, sanding, staining, and sealing is a recurring cycle that costs time and money year after year, and inevitably the wood will get to a state where it needs to be fully replaced.

Composite decking was developed largely to solve those problems, and it does address some of them. It won’t rot or splinter, and it requires less maintenance than wood. However, it can get uncomfortably hot underfoot in direct summer sun, which anyone who’s walked barefoot across a composite deck in July in Virginia Beach can attest to. And in rooftop or terrace situations, it isn’t designed to account for drainage, waterproofing, or the specific stresses of a surface that’s also functioning as a protective layer over a structure below. In addition to that, it can become very costly depending on the size of the deck you’re replacing.

Concrete pavers are durable and attractive, but weight becomes a real issue on elevated structures. Concrete is heavy, and a lot of it on an elevated deck puts serious structural stress on the framing, which on an older deck may already be showing wear.

The Unusual Suspect

Walkable rubber composite roofing pavers were engineered specifically for elevated, exposed surfaces, whether that’s a rooftop terrace or an elevated deck. Here are a few “pros” of this material that go beyond the rooftop.

  • They’re dramatically lighter than concrete. Elevate SkyPavers weigh roughly 35% of what comparable concrete pavers would. On an elevated deck, that’s a big difference. Less weight means less structural stress on the framing, which matters both for safety and for the long-term integrity of the structure.
  • Roofing pavers will not warp, splinter, gray out or rot. The material is inherently resistant to moisture, and in a region like Hampton Roads where humidity is a fact of life year-round that is a meaningful advantage.
  • They reflect heat rather than absorbing it. The TPO membrane that underlies the paver system is typically white and highly reflective. This keeps the surface temperature considerably lower than composite decking or concrete in direct sun. On a sunny summer afternoon at the Virginia Beach oceanfront, that makes a big difference for a surface to stay walkable and enjoyable rather than becoming a bed of coals you need to navigate in bare feet.
  • Elevate SkyPavers carry a 20-year warranty and have a potential lifespan of up to 50 years. Compare that to a wood deck that needs significant attention every few years, and the math on long-term cost starts looking very appealing.
  • And importantly, they look good. Walkable pavers are available in a wide range of colors that can be selected to complement your home’s exterior. The finished surface is clean, modern, and attractive.

Roofing Paver Installation

These systems work in layers. First the existing deck surface will need to be evaluated to ensure it’s structurally sound. This step is critical and should be done by a qualified contractor who can tell you whether any framing repairs are needed before any additional weight is added. From there, a TPO waterproofing membrane is installed, followed by a drainage mat, and then the pavers are set on top. The pavers aren’t permanently adhered, which means the surface beneath remains accessible and the system can be adjusted if needed.

The result is a surface that protects the structure below while providing a durable, attractive, walkable surface above – exactly what a good deck surface should do.

As with any roofing or elevated surface project, installation should be handled by a licensed contractor with experience in this specific material. The system has its own requirements and best practices and getting it right matters both for performance and for warranty purposes.

A Good Fit for Hampton Roads

Elevated decks and raised patios are common throughout Hampton Roads: second-floor decks on oceanfront and ocean-block homes, raised patios on homes with grade changes, balconies on multi-story townhomes in Virginia Beach, Norfolk, and Chesapeake. Many of these surfaces were built with wood and are now at or past the point where they need an upgrade.

If you’re already thinking about what to do with an aging deck, it’s worth adding roofing pavers to the conversation before you default to the familiar options. For elevated surfaces especially, the combination of low weight, durability, heat reflectivity, and longevity makes a truly compelling case.

Andrews Roofing has experience with walkable paver installations across Hampton Roads, including in the demanding coastal environments where these materials really prove their worth. If you’d like to talk through whether this approach makes sense for your deck or raised patio, contact us today. We’re happy to take a look at your home’s specific situation and walk you through the options.

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How a Home Renovation Can Impact Your Existing Roof

Are you planning a big home renovation this spring to add a screened in porch, a sunroom, second story addition, kitchen expansion or anything else that affects the footprint of your home?

If so, you’ve probably been focused on floor plans and layouts, but it’s time to look up. One very critical component can be overlooked in the early stages of renovation planning: how the new structure will tie into and affect your existing roof system.

We work with plenty of homeowners in Hampton Roads who are surprised to learn that a renovation may require more than just “adding on” a little extra roofing. Here’s what you should know before construction begins so you can plan and budget accordingly.

When New Roofing Has to Tie into an Existing Roofline

Even if the existing shingles look fine from the ground, portions of the original roof may need to be removed to ensure the tie-in is watertight and structurally sound. A roof is a system, not just shingles. Proper flashing, underlayment, decking, and ventilation all have to work together. When a new roof section is integrated, those components must align seamlessly with the original system.

When you add a screened porch, covered patio, garage, or full home addition, the new roof must physically connect to the existing roof system. This connection point is often where issues arise. During construction, contractors may need to open up sections of the existing roof decking, depending on how the new structure ties into your existing structure. A new roof tie-in can involve creating a new valley where the two roof planes meet – a critical juncture point that can make or break the integrity of a roofing system.

At minimum, it will require removing existing shingles to properly install flashing and underlayment or even modifying the roof decking or underlying rafters for structural support. They may also need to modify the home’s framing to support any new load. This is especially true for second-story additions or large bump-outs. New ridge or soffit vents may be necessary, and gutters and downspouts are likely to be rerouted. Finally, the ventilation in your attic may need to be adjusted to accommodate an expanded footprint.

Will You Have to Replace the Entire Roof?

The answer really depends on several factors to determine whether a partial replacement is sufficient or whether a full roof replacement makes more sense.

  1. Age of the Existing Roof. If your roof is nearing the end of its lifespan (for example, a 20-year-old architectural shingle roof), it may not be cost-effective to tie new roofing into aging materials. You could end up replacing the entire roof a few years later anyway.
  2. Condition of Existing Materials. If there’s curling or brittle shingles, granule loss, prior storm damage, or soft decking, a full replacement may be necessary. Unfortunately, some of those issues may not be apparent until construction begins.
  3. Matching Materials. Shingle colors and product lines change over time. If your current shingles are discontinued, the new section may not match perfectly. For homeowners concerned about curb appeal this can be a deciding factor.

In many cases, homeowners choose to replace the entire roof during a major renovation simply for aesthetic continuity, long-term value and getting all of the construction out of the way at once.

What to Expect

Every type of renovation project is different, but there are some similarities across certain types of projects.

Screened Porch or Covered Patio

These projects often involve cutting into the existing roof line to create a new connection and new slope. Expect partial shingle removal and new flashing installation.

Garage Addition

This may create new valleys and require significant integration into the main roof structure. Expect removal of some existing roofing materials, possible structural changes to rafters and roof decking.

Second-Story Addition

Adding a new story to a home typically requires removing large portions (or all) of the existing roof structure. The new structure will require a new roof system, and whether or not that ties into your existing roofline will depend on the design.

Bump-Out or Kitchen Expansion

Bump outs can involve complex transitions and slope changes that demand careful waterproofing and sound structural design and construction. Expect that significant changes will need to be made to the existing roofline and plan for the possibility of needing to replace all exterior roofing materials in order to have a seamless transition to the new structure.

Timing Matters in Hampton Roads

Because of the unpredictable weather patterns we see across Southeast Virginia, scheduling roofing work strategically during renovations is important. Temporary exposure during tie-ins can create vulnerability if unexpected rain or storms roll in. Coordination between your general contractor and roofing contractor ensures that materials are delivered and staged properly, that open roof sections are protected, and that the installation sequence minimizes risk to your home. Bringing in a licensed roofing contractor during the planning phase before framing begins can prevent costly change orders and water intrusion issues later.

The Bottom Line

A home renovation doesn’t just expand your interior living space, it changes much about your home’s exterior, including the roofing system. Sometimes a tie-in is simple. Other times, it’s an opportunity to upgrade aging materials, improve ventilation, or invest in a full replacement that enhances both curb appeal and protection.

If you’re planning a screened-in porch, home addition, or structural renovation in the Tidewater Region, involving a local, qualified roofing professional early in the process can help you make informed decisions and avoid surprises. At Andrews Roofing, we’re happy to evaluate your existing roof, collaborate with your contractor, and help you determine the smartest path forward for your home. Contact us today.

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DIY Roof Repairs: What Could Go Wrong

“What could go wrong” when trying to repair your own roof isn’t a question – it’s an inevitability.

We know many homeowners take pride in tackling repairs and home improvement projects themselves. Leaky faucet – easy enough. Swapping out a light fixture? A little more complicated, but doable for the advanced weekend warrior. But when it comes to your roof, the DIY mindset can quickly turn from “I’ve got this” to “I’ve made a very expensive mistake.”

It’s not uncommon for our office to get calls that start with, “Well, we tried to fix it ourselves…” Roof repairs are one of the most commonly underestimated home maintenance tasks and also one of the most dangerous. Here’s a look at the roof repairs we see homeowners often attempt on their own, and what can (and frequently does) go wrong.

Common DIY Roof Repairs Gone Wrong

1. Replacing a Few Missing or Damaged Shingles

No big deal, right? On the surface, this seems straightforward: remove the damaged shingle, nail a new one in place, seal it, and move on.

What goes wrong:

  • Improper nail placement can puncture the underlayment, creating new leak points
  • Incorrect shingle alignment disrupts water flow
  • Using the wrong type or color of shingle compromises performance and appearance
  • Sealant is applied incorrectly or not at all

In Southeast Virginia, where heavy rain and high winds are common, even small installation mistakes can allow wind-driven rain to penetrate the roof system, causing more damage than what likely would have happened if you’d left the shingle alone.

2. “Patching” a Roof Leak with Sealant or Tar

Caulk and roofing tar feel like quick, easy, and affordable fixes for a leak, and they’re often the first thing homeowners reach for. But this “quick fix” can cause long-term problems.

What goes wrong:

  • Leaks are rarely where water enters the home; they travel along decking and framing, so sealing an area where the leak has penetrated is probably not solving the problem
  • Sealants dry out, crack, or wash away over time
  • Patching the visible issue masks the underlying problem

In humid coastal climates, trapped moisture can lead to rot, mold, and decking failure long before the leak becomes obvious again, which means you’ve created a secondary problem that is now going to require structural repair.

3. Cleaning or Adjusting Flashing

Loose flashing around chimneys, skylights, and roof penetrations is a common DIY target. You can easily see the problem and the solution feels straightforward. But this fix actually takes much more skill than you would imagine.

What goes wrong:

  • Flashing is bent or reinstalled incorrectly
  • Existing waterproofing layers are damaged
  • Fasteners are driven into the wrong locations

Flashing failures are one of the leading causes of roof leaks—and one of the easiest ways for DIY work to create long-term water intrusion. Not to mention this type of work is particularly dangerous for someone not accustomed to working on roofs.

4. Gutter “Fixes” That Affect the Roof

Homeowners often clean, reattach, or adjust gutters without realizing how closely they interact with the roofing system.

What goes wrong:

  • Improper pitch causes water to back up onto the roof edge
  • Fascia boards are damaged during reattachment
  • Hidden water damage and rot go unnoticed

In areas like Hampton Roads, where sudden downpours are common, poor drainage can overwhelm roof edges and accelerate deterioration.

What DIY Roof Repairs Can Really Cost You

1. More Damage Than You Started With

One misstep—literally or figuratively—can turn a minor issue into structural damage. Water intrusion doesn’t announce itself right away, and by the time it does, repairs are often far more extensive (and expensive) than the original problem.

2. Voided Warranties

Many roofing manufacturers require that repairs and modifications be performed by licensed professionals. DIY work – even when well-intentioned and effective – can void material warranties, leaving homeowners unprotected when future issues arise.

3. Insurance Complications

If a DIY repair fails and causes interior damage, insurance companies may deny claims due to improper workmanship or unlicensed repairs. This is especially risky following storms or high-wind events common in Southeast Virginia.

4. Serious Safety Risks

This is the part that cannot be overstated.

  • Roofs are steep, slick, and unforgiving
  • Asphalt shingles become dangerously slippery in heat, humidity, or after rain, especially when covered with mold or mildew
  • Falls from even one story can result in severe injury

Every year, homeowners are seriously injured attempting roof work because they don’t have the proper knowledge, safety equipment or understanding of structural weak points of their own home. Don’t damage your home AND yourself with risky DIY repairs.

When in Doubt, Call a Professional

Professional roofers understand the composition of a roofing system, how water behaves under different weather conditions, how the regional climate impacts materials and installation, and how to work safely in their environment.

A professional roofing inspection can often catch issues homeowners didn’t even realize were connected to the issue they’ve identified, saving them from much more costly repairs down the road. So, if you’re noticing missing shingles, leaks, sagging areas, or storm damage, or even if you’re unsure what you’re seeing but you know something is wrong, calling a licensed roofing professional is the safest, smartest first step.

DIY projects have their place, but your roof isn’t one of them. Contact Andrews Roofing today.

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