Leaks & Service Repairs

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Reroof Estimates & Inspections

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Category: Residential Roofing

Navigating Hampton Roads HOA Rules Before You Replace Your Roof

If you live in a community with a homeowners association, replacing your roof involves more than picking a shingle you like and scheduling a crew.

Across the Tidewater region, plenty of neighborhoods have architectural guidelines that govern what your new roof can look like and skipping that step can cost you far more than a fine. Here’s what tends to be true across Hampton Roads HOAs, and what to check before you get too far into planning.

Get Approval Before Work Begins

Virginia’s Property Owners’ Association Act gives HOAs the authority to set design guidelines for exterior changes, and roof replacement almost always falls under that umbrella. What catches homeowners off guard is the order of operations. Even when you’re covering the full cost of your own roof, many associations require sign-off from an architectural review committee before a single shingle comes off. It’s easy to assume that because you’re the one paying for it, it’s your call. In HOA communities, it usually isn’t, at least not entirely.

What guidelines typically cover

Every community writes its own rules, but a few categories show up again and again:

  • Color, often specified as an approved color family rather than one exact shade
  • Material type, with architectural shingles frequently required over older three-tab styles
  • Specific product lines or manufacturers, in communities with an approved materials list
  • Contractor qualifications, occasionally requested as part of the approval submission

The guidelines have to be written down somewhere and available to homeowners. If you’re not sure what applies to your property, you can request a copy of your governing documents, and Virginia law generally requires associations to provide them within a set window after a written request, commonly cited as ten to thirty days.

Skipping Approval Can Be a Big Risk

The coastal exposure Hampton Roads communities have raises the stakes for HOA paperwork. Because we sit in a higher wind and hurricane risk zone, some communities’ guidelines have requirements for wind rating or impact resistance in addition to color and material. That means a homeowner focused purely on aesthetics could choose a shingle that looks approved but doesn’t actually meet the association’s performance standard, which is an easy thing to miss if you’re not reading the fine print.

And the consequences of skipping the process aren’t limited to a sternly worded letter or dirty looks from the HOA President. If a finished roof doesn’t match what was approved, whether that’s the wrong color, the wrong material, or simply a case of never submitting for approval at all, an HOA can require the homeowner to redo it and bring it into compliance at their own expense. Nobody wants to pay for two roofs, plus the fines and potential liens that can pile up if it drags out.

The Historic Layer

A quick note for homeowners in parts of Norfolk and Portsmouth: some neighborhoods, like Ghent, Colonial Place, and Olde Towne, fall under historic district overlays that add a separate layer of review beyond a standard HOA. That’s a bigger topic on its own, and one we’ll cover in more depth in a future post, but if your home sits in one of these areas or another historic neighborhood, it’s worth knowing that HOA approval and historic district approval aren’t always the same conversation.

Start with the paperwork, not the shingles

Before you call a roofer, pull your HOA’s governing documents and look for the sections on exterior modifications, roofing materials, and the architectural review process. Having that information ready when you request a quote means your contractor can spec out a proposal that’s actually approvable, rather than submitting something that gets sent back and delays your project by weeks.

If you’re planning to sell down the road, this step matters even more. Virginia requires HOAs to include architectural guidelines and any approvals on file in the resale disclosure packet, so a roof that was never properly approved can become an ugly surprise at closing.

At Andrews Roofing, we’ve walked plenty of Hampton Roads homeowners through this process, and we’re happy to help you figure out what your HOA needs before we dive into the details. Contact us today to get started.

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Everything You Need to Know About Roofing Tie-Ins

If you’ve ever added on to your home or shared a roofline with a neighbor, you may have run into a common roofing challenge: the tie-in. A tie-in is any spot where one section of roofing connects into another, whether that’s where two sections of the same material meet (hopefully without a visible seam), or where two completely different materials join together at a transition point. These connection points are not simple carpentry, and getting it right takes skill and experience to avoid leaks, drainage problems, and repairs down the road. In Hampton Roads, humidity, heavy rain, hurricanes and nor’easters are constantly putting homeowners’ roofs to the test, so something like a poorly executed tie-in can become a major issue quickly and dramatically.

Home Additions

One of the most common place homeowners run into a tie-in is when they add on to their house. A new front porch, a rear sunroom, a bedroom expansion, all of these need their roofing connected to the existing roof, and that connection point is critical.

Sometimes the approach is straightforward if the addition is roofed in the same shingle style as the main house. A skilled crew can blend the new material into the old with a clean, watertight transition. But an addition might call for a different material altogether, like metal or a membrane roof on a flatter section, in which case, the tie-in will require a different approach.

Flat roof additions using TPO or metal have their own manufacturer specs for how that material should be flashed and sealed where it meets shingle roofing, and skipping those specs is a common source of future leaks.

Because matching old and new materials (or even old and new shingles that may have weathered differently) can be such a challenge, many homeowners choose to reroof the entire house, addition included, at the same time. If the main roof is nearing the end of its lifespan, it may be worth considering a new, uniform roof that works together from day one and isn’t aging at different paces.

Shared Rooflines

Tie-ins get even more complicated when two separate homeowners share the same roof structure, which is common with townhomes in Virginia Beach and Chesapeake or even older and historic rowhouses in Norfolk and Portsmouth. In these cases, the roofing may run continuously across both or several units with no visible line where one owner’s roof ends and the neighbor’s begins.

This shared structure creates a unique problem when something goes wrong. A leak you’re seeing in your ceiling or walls may actually be originating somewhere on the neighbor’s side of the roof and traveling across the shared line. This can obviously create some cooperation problems. If the leak’s source sits on the neighbor’s portion of the roof, that neighbor needs to be involved in the repair, and not everyone is equally willing or able to pitch in for a repair right away (especially if they’re not experiencing the downsides of it). A homeowner who’s ready to move forward can find themselves stuck waiting on someone else’s schedule, budget, or willingness to cooperate, even though the water damage is happening on their side.

Commercial Material Tie-Ins

Tie-ins aren’t just a residential issue. Commercial buildings, particularly those with membrane roofing, run into them too, usually when only a portion of the roof needs replacing rather than the whole system. Manufacturers publish specific installation guidelines for exactly how a membrane roof section should be removed and how the new material should be reinstalled and sealed where it meets the existing roof. Following those specs closely is what keeps the whole system watertight.

How To Do Tie-Ins Right

Whether it’s residential or commercial, metal, asphalt shingle or any other material, the tie-in is an important detail that you probably haven’t thought much about. While it’s common in construction to transition from one roofing material to another, or to work new roofing into a previous install, it still takes careful attention to manufacturer specs, an understanding of how water moves across a roofline, and experience with the specific materials involved.

It’s not uncommon for us to get service calls that trace back to a tie-in that wasn’t handled quite right, especially after a home addition. A tie-in that’s properly flashed, sealed, and integrated will protect the new section of roof and the entire roofing system it’s connected to. If you’re planning an addition, dealing with a shared roofline situation, or noticing a leak near where two roof sections meet, give us a call. We have decades of experience in Hampton Roads homes, and can provide the best solutions for your budget and situation. Contact Andrews Roofing today.

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The Truth About Metal Roof Noise and Condensation

You may have heard people complain that metal roofs are noisy in the rain or prone to condensation dripping inside the attic, but the reality is actually more interesting. Those complaints almost never come from the metal panel itself. They come from how the rest of the roofing system was designed and installed around it.

For homeowners here in Hampton Roads, where humidity is unavoidable not just in the summer but throughout the year, understanding the real cause of these issues matters. Because tackling the true underlying issues can be the difference between a solid, long-lasting roof or a recurring headache.

What Actually Causes Condensation

Condensation isn’t a metal problem. It’s a physics problem, and it shows up on any surface, metal or otherwise. Think about a cold glass of iced tea sweating on a summer porch. The same thing happens on a roof: when warm, humid air inside a building reaches a surface that’s colder than the dew point, moisture condenses out of the air and onto that surface.

In a house, that surface is usually the underside of the roof deck. If the attic isn’t properly ventilated or insulated, humid indoor air rises, hits a cold roof surface on a chilly night, and condensation forms. That can happen under asphalt shingles just as easily as under metal. The panel material has nothing to do with it.

Three Ways to Keep It from Happening

Controlling condensation comes down to managing three things:

  • Reducing indoor humidity so there’s less moisture in the air to begin with.
  • Ventilating so humid air has a path out of the attic or roof assembly before it can condense.
  • Insulating so the underside of the roof deck never gets cold enough to hit the dew point in the first place.

One increasingly common approach on metal roofs is a small, ventilated gap between the roof deck and the panel itself, sometimes called above-sheathing ventilation. It lets air move underneath the panel, drawing cooler air in low and pushing warm, moist air out high, which keeps the deck from ever holding onto trapped moisture. It’s a detail worth asking about if you’re considering a metal roof, regardless of which manufacturer’s panels your contractor uses.

Thermal Bridging Isn’t a Metal Issue Either

If you’ve been researching roof replacements, you may have heard the term “thermal bridging.” It refers to any spot where heat (or cold) has a direct path through a roof assembly, usually because insulation is thin, compressed, or interrupted by framing. It happens in every type of roof. In fact, next time there’s a hard frost, look at an asphalt shingle roof in your neighborhood. If you can see faint outlines of the rafters through melted frost patterns, that’s thermal bridging in action, and there’s no metal involved at all. In other words, it’s a framing and insulation issue, not a panel issue.

What About the Noise?

This one’s simple: on a properly insulated, fully decked roof, rain on metal sounds about the same as rain on any other roofing material. The perception that metal roofs are loud usually traces back to old barns or farmhouses with a single layer of exposed metal and no insulation underneath which is a completely different assembly than what goes on a modern home. Add fibrous insulation and a solid deck, and the sound difference is negligible. Standing seam systems, which use concealed clips rather than exposed fasteners, add another layer of quiet by reducing vibration transfer into the structure.

Where Metal Roofs Actually Go Wrong

If condensation or noise complaints show up after installation, it’s rarely the material’s fault. It’s almost always a corner that got cut somewhere along the way: a skipped strip of vapor barrier tape, insulation that got compressed or gapped over a framing member, or a ventilation detail that got value-engineered out during construction. These are small decisions made in the field, and they’re exactly where roof performance is won or lost.

The Takeaway

A metal roof isn’t inherently loud or prone to sweating any more than any other roofing material. What matters is the full system around it: how it’s insulated, how it’s ventilated, and how carefully it’s installed. That’s true whether you’re comparing standing seam panels, architectural shingles, or anything in between.

If you’re weighing a metal roof for your home or commercial building in Hampton Roads, Andrews Roofing can walk you through the insulation and ventilation details that actually determine how your roof performs, not just what it’s made of. Contact us today to talk through your options.

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Don’t Wait for Winter: How Summer Chimney Care Keeps Your Whole Roof Healthy

When the temperatures rise in Hampton Roads and your fireplace goes cold for the season, it can be easy to forget the chimney even exists.

That is, until the fall, when you’re ready to get cozy, lighting your first fire of the year and noticing a musty smell, a mysterious water stain on the ceiling, or worse, the sound of something potentially living up there?

Summer is actually the ideal time to inspect and address chimney issues before you’re ready to snuggle up in front of a fire. Here’s why regular maintenance matters for your roof, your home, and your peace of mind.

The Off-Season Advantage

Most homeowners think about their chimneys in late fall when the evenings start to cool down. The problem is that by then, roofing and chimney contractors are slammed with demand, and any damage that’s been accumulating all summer has had months to get worse. Scheduling your chimney inspection and any needed repairs during summer means no disruption in your routine or heat. It also means you’ll get more scheduling flexibility with contractors, dryer summer weather that’s better conditions for mortar work, flashing repairs and sealant curing, and peace of mind heading into the cooler months knowing your system is sound.

Summer is Wildlife Season

An uncapped or damaged chimney is prime real estate for birds, squirrels, raccoons, and other wildlife who are out and about during the warmer months. Once a chimney isn’t in frequent use, it becomes an attractive nesting spot that is dark, sheltered and elevated.

In addition to nesting materials being a major fire hazard and mess, when wildlife intrudes into your chimney, the cap can be physically damaged or removed entirely, leaving the flue wide open to rain, debris, and ongoing animal access. A raccoon or even a squirrel that’s been using your chimney all summer can cause a lot of damage that you might not know about until you go to light that first fall fire of the season. Fortunately, the solution to this is simple: a properly installed, well-fitting chimney cap keeps wildlife AND weather out.

The Importance of Chimney Caps

Not all chimneys are alike, which means not all chimney caps are either. There are standard sizes, which can be dealt with using stock caps but then there are non-standard sizes and special situations where custom caps are needed. This is not at all uncommon in Hampton Roads, given the number of older and historic homes here.

For standard flue openings, a stock chimney cap is practical, cost-effective and can be installed quickly, solving most animal intrusion issues immediately. But for those outliers, Andrews Roofing can custom fabricate chimney caps to fit virtually any opening, ensuring a proper seal, a professional appearance, and longevity.

A well-fitted chimney cap does more than keep animals out. It also:

  • Prevents rain and moisture from entering the flue and damaging the firebox, liner, and surrounding masonry
  • Blocks wind-driven debris from accumulating inside the chimney
  • Reduces downdrafts that can push smoke back into the home
  • Extends the life of your chimney liner and surrounding masonry

Why Your Chimney is so Important to Your Roof

Chimney leaks are one of the most common sources of roof-related water damage, but they are also often the most misdiagnosed. Your roof may be in great shape, but the connection points between it and the chimney may actually be to blame for the damage.

Brick Chimneys: Mortar and Masonry Concerns

On brick chimneys, the most common leak source is deteriorating mortar – the material that holds the bricks together and seals the top crown of the chimney. Our coastal climate can be hard on masonry due to the summer heat, humidity and thaw-freeze cycles in the winter. That repeated expansion and contraction can eventually crack or erode mortar joints.

Once mortar begins to fail, water can get inside the masonry itself. Without remediation, bricks can literally pop off or become loose, causing significant structural deterioration and water intrusion into attic and living spaces. However, there are masonry specialists who can make these repairs, called “tuckpointing” which removes and replaces damaged mortar. Summer is the ideal time of year for this type of work for the mortar to dry quickly and effectively.

Vinyl-Sided Homes: Flashing Concerns

On homes with vinyl siding and vinyl sided chimneys, the critical element is flashing, that thin metal material installed around the base of the chimney where it meets the roof deck. When installed properly, step and counter flashing should create a watertight seal at this important transition point.

But flashing can fail for a number of reasons: poor original installation, sealant that has dried out and cracked over time, or physical damage from storms or settling. Because the failure point is often hidden under the siding or shingles, flashing leaks can be particularly tricky to diagnose and are often blamed on the roof itself when the chimney is actually the culprit.

Hampton Roads Humidity and Chimney Health

Hampton Roads’ coastal climate brings year-round moisture challenges that accelerate the wear on chimneys faster than drier inland climates. High humidity means mortar stays damp longer, sealants and caulks degrade more quickly, and any small opening in a cap, crown, or flashing becomes an invitation for ongoing water intrusion. That’s why staying ahead of chimney maintenance in our region is essential.

Check It Off Your List

At Andrews Roofing, we can inspect, and in some cases repair or replace chimney-related roofing components. From flashing to custom-fabricated chimney caps built to fit your specific chimney, we have the expertise to take care of it. If it’s been more than a year since your chimney was inspected, or if you’ve noticed any signs of water intrusion near the fireplace or in the attic above it, now is the time to act. Contact us today to schedule your chimney and roof inspection before summer flies by.

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Is Your Roof’s Drainage System Ready for Storm Season?

Between the humidity, the nor’easters, tropical storms and the occasional full-blown hurricane, Hampton Roads knows rain and knows that it’s not to be dealt with lightly.

A well-designed drainage system is one of the most important (and often the most overlooked) investments you can make in your home. When water has nowhere to go, it finds its way into your home’s fascia, down your siding, and finally – into your foundation. But proper drainage isn’t just about gutters. There are many components that work together to keep water moving away from your home. Here’s a breakdown of what your roof drainage system should consider and why.

Drainage: The Unsung Hero

Your roofing materials get a lot of attention: shingles, flashing, underlayment.  But even the highest end roofing materials aren’t worth much if water can’t exit the system efficiently. Poor drainage leads to pooling water, which accelerates shingle deterioration, promotes mold and mildew growth, and puts unnecessary weight and stress on your roof structure. In our coastal climate, where heavy rain events can dump several inches in a matter of hours, a drainage system that can’t keep up is a liability.

The good news is that a properly sized and maintained drainage system is built to handle these types of rain events with ease. The key being “properly sized.” Not every drainage setup is created equal, and the details such as gutter capacity, downspout placement, and guard selection make a significant difference in how well your system performs over time.

Gutters: Capacity Is Everything

Gutters are your roof’s first line of defense against water damage. Their job is to collect runoff from the entire roof surface and channel it safely away from your home’s foundation. Standard residential gutters come in 5-inch and 6-inch widths, with the larger size handling significantly more volume (an especially important consideration for homes with steep pitches or large surface area). In a region where storm intensity can be unpredictable, upsizing your gutters is a decision most homeowners don’t regret.

Equally important is how the gutters are pitched. A properly installed gutter isn’t perfectly level, it’s angled slightly toward the downspout so water flows rather than sits. Standing water in a gutter is a breeding ground for mosquitoes and can lead to rust and rot. Your gutters may look fine from the ground while actually holding water if the pitch has shifted over time due to fastener failure or foundation movement.

One option that addresses many of the issues we experience in the Tidewater region is the Rapid Rain Gutter System™ which was specially designed for high capacity without the visual trade off. The Rapid Rain looks like a standard 5-inch gutter from the curb, but it’s engineered with a larger-than-standard gutter bottom and downspout to perform like a 6-inch system. It’s also constructed from 18.5% heavier metal than standard gutters and mounted with heavy-duty hangers to hold up through years of coastal weather. This is a great option for homeowners who want upgraded drainage performance without the visual bulk of an oversized gutter.

Downspouts: Placement and Number Matter

Downspouts are where drainage systems most commonly fall short. Many homes, especially older builds, were fitted with the minimum number of downspouts, and that minimum may no longer be adequate as the home has settled, trees have grown, or weather patterns have intensified. The general guideline is one downspout for every 30 to 40 linear feet of gutter, but this should be adjusted based on your roof’s size and slope.

Placement is just as important. Downspouts should be positioned at the low points of each gutter run, typically at corners and ideally away from doorways, HVAC units, and areas where pooling near the foundation could become a problem. Extensions at the base of each downspout help direct water at least four to six feet away from the house, reducing the risk of foundation dampness and erosion. If your yard slopes back toward the house, underground extensions or French drains may be worth considering.

Leaf Guards: Worth the Investment?

Leaf guards (also called gutter guards or gutter covers) are designed to keep debris out of your gutters while allowing water to flow through. For homes surrounded by the tall pines, oaks, hickory trees and gumball trees that are so common in Hampton Roads landscaping, they can dramatically reduce how often gutters need to be manually cleaned. However, no gutter guard is completely maintenance-free, and homeowners should install them with realistic expectations.

Upsides:

  • Significantly reduces debris buildup and the need for frequent cleaning
  • Reduces the risk of clogs that lead to overflow and water damage
  • Helps prevent pests and mosquitoes from nesting in standing water
  • Some styles can extend the life of the gutter by reducing moisture contact

Considerations:

  • Fine debris like pine needles and seed pods can still work their way through certain guard designs
  • In heavy rain, water can sometimes overshoot a covered gutter entirely
  • Guards still require periodic inspection and occasional cleaning
  • Installation quality matters – poorly fitted guards can create more problems than they solve

Guard quality varies widely, and micro-mesh styles tend to outperform basic screens or foam inserts in heavily wooded areas. If you’re going with the Rapid Rain Gutter System™, it can be fitted with Andrews Roofing’s patented MicroGuard Leaf Protection, which has over 48 perforations per square inch making it fine enough to block even small debris like pine needles. For other gutter systems, the important thing is just to be sure whatever guard you select is compatible with your gutter profile and installed with care by a professional.

Rain Diverters: A Targeted Tool, Not a Replacement

Rain diverters are metal strips installed on the roof surface to redirect water away from specific problem areas such as doorways, porches, or valleys that tend to funnel runoff water all in one area, creating heavy water streams. They can be a practical and relatively low-cost solution in the right situation. For example, if you have a doorway that has a constant waterfall effect every time it rains, that’s a good place for a diverter.

However, diverters come with their own set of trade-offs. Because they interrupt the natural flow of water across the roof, they can create pockets where debris accumulates. Leaves, twigs, and granules from aging shingles tend to collect along the edge of a diverter, which can eventually trap moisture against the roof surface. If diverters aren’t inspected and cleared regularly, they can contribute to premature shingle wear and even leaks.

So, while rain diverters can solve some problems, they should only be used as a supplement to a larger drainage solution. Use them where they make sense, but don’t rely on them as your primary drainage solution.

Maintenance: Don’t Underestimate This!

Even the best-designed drainage system will fail if not regularly maintained. In Hampton Roads, where tree coverage is dense and storm season runs from spring through late fall, most homes benefit from gutter cleaning at least twice a year. We recommend once in late spring after pollen and seed pods have fallen, and once in late fall after the leaves are down. Doing this before winter weather kicks in can help avoid ice dams and slow leaks that don’t make themselves known until exponential damage has been done.

When cleaning gutters, it’s also a good time to inspect for signs of wear: rust spots, separated seams, loose or bent hangers, and downspouts that have pulled away from the fascia. Check that all downspout extensions are intact and properly directing water away from the foundation. After major storms, a quick visual check is always worth the few minutes it takes. A clog that forms after a heavy rain event can cause overflow damage in the very next storm if it goes unaddressed.

The Right System for Your Home

Roof drainage isn’t one-size-fits-all. The right setup depends on your home’s size and roof pitch, the tree coverage on your property, your yard’s grading, and how much maintenance you’re realistically going to do. A home tucked into a wooded lot in Chesapeake has different needs than a townhouse in a newer Virginia Beach development near the beach.

If you’re not sure whether your current drainage system is up to the task of this year’s hurricane season, Andrews Roofing can take a look. We’ll assess your gutter sizing, downspout placement, and overall drainage strategy and let you know if there are any vulnerabilities worth addressing before the next big storm rolls through. A small investment in drainage today can prevent a much larger repair bill down the road. Contact us today for an evaluation.

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Protecting Your Roof While Power Washing

This is the time of year that many Hampton Roads homeowners get outside and start tidying up their yard and home’s exterior as outdoor living season takes off.

For some, this includes power washing off mold, mildew and other dirt that has accumulated on vinyl siding, wood fascia, gutters and even brick. While this is a good task to stay on top of to keep your house looking good and to protect your home’s building materials from decay, there are also risks, especially the higher up you go.

It’s tempting to take the power washing all the way to the top – especially when you see algae and mold buildup on your roof. If it works on the siding and driveway, why not the roof, right? But the damage you can cause to yourself and your home with this well-intentioned chore could be disastrous.

What Happens When You Power Wash Shingles

It’s never a good idea to power wash your roof. First and foremost, it’s incredibly dangerous to you. Walking on a slick, steep slope roof with a powerful tool in hand is a recipe for injury. But it’s also likely to do more harm than good to your roof as well. Here’s how:

  • Granule loss: the protective granules embedded in asphalt shingles are what shield them from UV rays and weather. The high pressure of the pressure washer strips them away, which can make them age faster.
  • Shingle breakage and cracking: older or already-weathered shingles are brittle; the added pressure can crack, split, or blow them away entirely.
  • Voided manufacturer warranty: many shingle manufacturers explicitly exclude damage from pressure washing, so don’t take any chances of losing a valuable warranty.
  • Water penetration to roof decking: a power washer has the ability to raise shingles up when the spray is pointed at the right angle. When that happens, water can penetrate to the underlayment and even to the roof decking, leading to rot, mold and eventually structural damage.

Power Washing Fascia, Gutters and Soffits

It’s also tempting to power wash the fascia, gutters and soffit on the outside of your house, as they can tend to get mildewed, especially in highly shaded areas or on the north side of your home. There are some ways to do this safely but keep these points in mind.

  • Upward spray under shingles: angling the wand upward forces water past the shingle’s overlap. As mentioned above, this can penetrate to the roof deck, causing much bigger and long-term damage.
  • Shingle lifting and loosening: the force can break the seal strip between shingles, leaving them vulnerable to strong wind lift afterward.
  • Gutter loosening: the force of a power washer may loosen or even detach gutters from the fascia or your home, or downspouts from their connection points. When gutters are not in place, they don’t move water away from your home correctly, which can lead to water damage along your foundation.
  • Soffit penetration: water driven into soffits can reach attic insulation, causing moisture buildup and mold growth inside the home.

What Should You Do Instead?

You want your home to look beautiful and protect it from long-term staining and damage, but there are right ways and wrong ways to do that. Here are a few ideas that are safer but still effective.

  • Soft washing: consider a low-pressure application of a biocide or cleaning solution designed specifically for roofs. These often attach to regular water hoses and can kill algae and mildew without physical force.
  • Professional gutter cleaning: Hire a local professional to manually clean your gutters with professional tools and leave the ladder climbing to them.
  • Annual professional roof inspection: catch buildup and early damage before it becomes a bigger problem. Call your local roofing professional if you have any concerns about roof aging, damage or maintenance. They will know what to look for and also how to identify and deal with it safely.
  • Algae-resistant shingles: there are some roofing materials now that have built-in algae resistance. Talk to your roofing contractor about these options if you’re considering a roof replacement. This is a particularly good choice for homeowners in the Hampton Roads region, which sees wet, humid weather year-round.

Take the Pressure Off Yourself

Your roof is your home’s first line of defense against the elements. Don’t let a DIY weekend compromise it, costing you money or even your safety. At Andrews Roofing we know all the telltale signs of roof damage – whether it was caused by you, the weather, age or previous owners. Contact us today if you have any concerns about your roof’s condition; we’d be happy to help point you in the right direction, while taking the pressure off you.

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