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Author: bc-admin

Don’t Wait for Winter: How Summer Chimney Care Keeps Your Whole Roof Healthy

When the temperatures rise in Hampton Roads and your fireplace goes cold for the season, it can be easy to forget the chimney even exists.

That is, until the fall, when you’re ready to get cozy, lighting your first fire of the year and noticing a musty smell, a mysterious water stain on the ceiling, or worse, the sound of something potentially living up there?

Summer is actually the ideal time to inspect and address chimney issues before you’re ready to snuggle up in front of a fire. Here’s why regular maintenance matters for your roof, your home, and your peace of mind.

The Off-Season Advantage

Most homeowners think about their chimneys in late fall when the evenings start to cool down. The problem is that by then, roofing and chimney contractors are slammed with demand, and any damage that’s been accumulating all summer has had months to get worse. Scheduling your chimney inspection and any needed repairs during summer means no disruption in your routine or heat. It also means you’ll get more scheduling flexibility with contractors, dryer summer weather that’s better conditions for mortar work, flashing repairs and sealant curing, and peace of mind heading into the cooler months knowing your system is sound.

Summer is Wildlife Season

An uncapped or damaged chimney is prime real estate for birds, squirrels, raccoons, and other wildlife who are out and about during the warmer months. Once a chimney isn’t in frequent use, it becomes an attractive nesting spot that is dark, sheltered and elevated.

In addition to nesting materials being a major fire hazard and mess, when wildlife intrudes into your chimney, the cap can be physically damaged or removed entirely, leaving the flue wide open to rain, debris, and ongoing animal access. A raccoon or even a squirrel that’s been using your chimney all summer can cause a lot of damage that you might not know about until you go to light that first fall fire of the season. Fortunately, the solution to this is simple: a properly installed, well-fitting chimney cap keeps wildlife AND weather out.

The Importance of Chimney Caps

Not all chimneys are alike, which means not all chimney caps are either. There are standard sizes, which can be dealt with using stock caps but then there are non-standard sizes and special situations where custom caps are needed. This is not at all uncommon in Hampton Roads, given the number of older and historic homes here.

For standard flue openings, a stock chimney cap is practical, cost-effective and can be installed quickly, solving most animal intrusion issues immediately. But for those outliers, Andrews Roofing can custom fabricate chimney caps to fit virtually any opening, ensuring a proper seal, a professional appearance, and longevity.

A well-fitted chimney cap does more than keep animals out. It also:

  • Prevents rain and moisture from entering the flue and damaging the firebox, liner, and surrounding masonry
  • Blocks wind-driven debris from accumulating inside the chimney
  • Reduces downdrafts that can push smoke back into the home
  • Extends the life of your chimney liner and surrounding masonry

Why Your Chimney is so Important to Your Roof

Chimney leaks are one of the most common sources of roof-related water damage, but they are also often the most misdiagnosed. Your roof may be in great shape, but the connection points between it and the chimney may actually be to blame for the damage.

Brick Chimneys: Mortar and Masonry Concerns

On brick chimneys, the most common leak source is deteriorating mortar – the material that holds the bricks together and seals the top crown of the chimney. Our coastal climate can be hard on masonry due to the summer heat, humidity and thaw-freeze cycles in the winter. That repeated expansion and contraction can eventually crack or erode mortar joints.

Once mortar begins to fail, water can get inside the masonry itself. Without remediation, bricks can literally pop off or become loose, causing significant structural deterioration and water intrusion into attic and living spaces. However, there are masonry specialists who can make these repairs, called “tuckpointing” which removes and replaces damaged mortar. Summer is the ideal time of year for this type of work for the mortar to dry quickly and effectively.

Vinyl-Sided Homes: Flashing Concerns

On homes with vinyl siding and vinyl sided chimneys, the critical element is flashing, that thin metal material installed around the base of the chimney where it meets the roof deck. When installed properly, step and counter flashing should create a watertight seal at this important transition point.

But flashing can fail for a number of reasons: poor original installation, sealant that has dried out and cracked over time, or physical damage from storms or settling. Because the failure point is often hidden under the siding or shingles, flashing leaks can be particularly tricky to diagnose and are often blamed on the roof itself when the chimney is actually the culprit.

Hampton Roads Humidity and Chimney Health

Hampton Roads’ coastal climate brings year-round moisture challenges that accelerate the wear on chimneys faster than drier inland climates. High humidity means mortar stays damp longer, sealants and caulks degrade more quickly, and any small opening in a cap, crown, or flashing becomes an invitation for ongoing water intrusion. That’s why staying ahead of chimney maintenance in our region is essential.

Check It Off Your List

At Andrews Roofing, we can inspect, and in some cases repair or replace chimney-related roofing components. From flashing to custom-fabricated chimney caps built to fit your specific chimney, we have the expertise to take care of it. If it’s been more than a year since your chimney was inspected, or if you’ve noticed any signs of water intrusion near the fireplace or in the attic above it, now is the time to act. Contact us today to schedule your chimney and roof inspection before summer flies by.

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Protecting Your Roof While Power Washing

This is the time of year that many Hampton Roads homeowners get outside and start tidying up their yard and home’s exterior as outdoor living season takes off.

For some, this includes power washing off mold, mildew and other dirt that has accumulated on vinyl siding, wood fascia, gutters and even brick. While this is a good task to stay on top of to keep your house looking good and to protect your home’s building materials from decay, there are also risks, especially the higher up you go.

It’s tempting to take the power washing all the way to the top – especially when you see algae and mold buildup on your roof. If it works on the siding and driveway, why not the roof, right? But the damage you can cause to yourself and your home with this well-intentioned chore could be disastrous.

What Happens When You Power Wash Shingles

It’s never a good idea to power wash your roof. First and foremost, it’s incredibly dangerous to you. Walking on a slick, steep slope roof with a powerful tool in hand is a recipe for injury. But it’s also likely to do more harm than good to your roof as well. Here’s how:

  • Granule loss: the protective granules embedded in asphalt shingles are what shield them from UV rays and weather. The high pressure of the pressure washer strips them away, which can make them age faster.
  • Shingle breakage and cracking: older or already-weathered shingles are brittle; the added pressure can crack, split, or blow them away entirely.
  • Voided manufacturer warranty: many shingle manufacturers explicitly exclude damage from pressure washing, so don’t take any chances of losing a valuable warranty.
  • Water penetration to roof decking: a power washer has the ability to raise shingles up when the spray is pointed at the right angle. When that happens, water can penetrate to the underlayment and even to the roof decking, leading to rot, mold and eventually structural damage.

Power Washing Fascia, Gutters and Soffits

It’s also tempting to power wash the fascia, gutters and soffit on the outside of your house, as they can tend to get mildewed, especially in highly shaded areas or on the north side of your home. There are some ways to do this safely but keep these points in mind.

  • Upward spray under shingles: angling the wand upward forces water past the shingle’s overlap. As mentioned above, this can penetrate to the roof deck, causing much bigger and long-term damage.
  • Shingle lifting and loosening: the force can break the seal strip between shingles, leaving them vulnerable to strong wind lift afterward.
  • Gutter loosening: the force of a power washer may loosen or even detach gutters from the fascia or your home, or downspouts from their connection points. When gutters are not in place, they don’t move water away from your home correctly, which can lead to water damage along your foundation.
  • Soffit penetration: water driven into soffits can reach attic insulation, causing moisture buildup and mold growth inside the home.

What Should You Do Instead?

You want your home to look beautiful and protect it from long-term staining and damage, but there are right ways and wrong ways to do that. Here are a few ideas that are safer but still effective.

  • Soft washing: consider a low-pressure application of a biocide or cleaning solution designed specifically for roofs. These often attach to regular water hoses and can kill algae and mildew without physical force.
  • Professional gutter cleaning: Hire a local professional to manually clean your gutters with professional tools and leave the ladder climbing to them.
  • Annual professional roof inspection: catch buildup and early damage before it becomes a bigger problem. Call your local roofing professional if you have any concerns about roof aging, damage or maintenance. They will know what to look for and also how to identify and deal with it safely.
  • Algae-resistant shingles: there are some roofing materials now that have built-in algae resistance. Talk to your roofing contractor about these options if you’re considering a roof replacement. This is a particularly good choice for homeowners in the Hampton Roads region, which sees wet, humid weather year-round.

Take the Pressure Off Yourself

Your roof is your home’s first line of defense against the elements. Don’t let a DIY weekend compromise it, costing you money or even your safety. At Andrews Roofing we know all the telltale signs of roof damage – whether it was caused by you, the weather, age or previous owners. Contact us today if you have any concerns about your roof’s condition; we’d be happy to help point you in the right direction, while taking the pressure off you.

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TPO or PVC: Which Low-Slope Membrane Is Right for Your Industrial Roof?

For property owners of warehouses, manufacturing facilities, or other industrial structures, the roof of your building isn’t just literal overhead, it’s one of the most critical components of the entire building.

Its success or failure can massively impact operations and profitability. And for the flat or low-slope roofs that dominate industrial construction, the material you choose matters enormously. Two of the most popular options – TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin) and PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) – are all single-ply membrane systems, which is exactly why they’re so commonly confused. While they may look similar on the surface, they perform differently depending on your building’s environment, purpose and your priorities as a property owner. If you’re having a roof installed or replaced on an industrial structure, here’s what you need to know about these different membrane materials.

TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin)

TPO is one of the most widely installed low-slope membrane systems in the country, and for good reason. It’s a single-ply white reflective membrane that’s heat-welded at the seams, creating a watertight bond.

Benefits: TPO’s biggest selling point for industrial clients is its energy efficiency. The white reflective surface deflects UV rays and reduces cooling costs, which is a real advantage for large industrial buildings with significant roof square footage. It holds up well against punctures, tears, and impact, and the heat-welded seams are highly resistant to leaks over time. It’s also one of the more cost-effective options up front, making it a good value for large-scale projects.

Challenges: TPO is a relatively newer material compared to EPDM, so there’s less performance data, and the quality can vary between manufacturers. The key to using TPO is working with a contractor who sources from reputable brands and is familiar with the product.

Best for: Buildings where energy efficiency is a priority with large roof areas that are exposed to sunlight. Projects where budget and performance need to be balanced. It’s an excellent all-around choice for warehouses and distribution centers in climates like Hampton Roads where summer heat is a real factor.

PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)

Like TPO, PVC membranes have a white reflective surface and heat-welded seams, but they offer the additional advantage of being chemical resistant. PVC has been used in industrial roofing since the 1960s and continues to be a popular option because of its performance in specific demanding environments.

Benefits: PVC’s resistance to chemicals, grease, animal fats, and industrial oils sets it apart from TPO. The heat-welded seams are as strong as TPO’s and like TPO, the white reflective surface helps manage heat and energy usage. PVC is also highly fire-resistant, which matters a lot in certain industrial settings.

Challenges: PVC carries a higher price point than TPO. Due to its formula, certain chemicals can leach out of the membrane over time, which will often cause it to become brittle if it’s not a high quality product. It can also be more sensitive to certain adhesives and solvents during installation.

Best for: Food processing facilities, restaurants, manufacturing plants that handle oils or chemicals, and any industrial application where roof exposure to chemical runoff or grease-laden exhaust is a real possibility. If your facility vents cooking oils, industrial solvents, or other chemical byproducts anywhere near the roof, PVC should be at the top of your list.

So How Do You Choose?

The honest answer both are good, solid systems when properly installed. The right choice depends on your specific building and how it’s used.

  • Choose TPO when energy efficiency, budget, and general performance are your priorities.
  • Choose PVC when your facility is exposed to chemicals, grease, or industrial byproducts that would compromise other membrane materials.

Andrews Roofing Can Help

At Andrews Roofing, we’ve been installing all three systems across industrial facilities in Hampton Roads for decades, and we’re happy to walk through which material makes the most sense for your facility, budget and priorities. Contact us for an estimate or inspection for a straight answer on what will deliver the best long-term return on your investment.

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